A glass of the 2016 Hillside Select reveals an opaque purple-black core, with a nose featuring a dark, mysterious center of crushed bramble fruit, burnt incense, fresh licorice, new leather, and sweet pipe tobacco. The incredibly fine tannins do a fantastic job of reining in this immense wine, and its palate of dark fruit, chocolate, bay leaf, cedar plank, and pencil lead woven with gravel, turned earth, and blueberry compote. Everything is fresh, everything is present, and everything is in proportion on a succulent, long-lasting finish that will evolve in the coming decades.
